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Tom standing among the eroded ridges of Badlands National Park
The Americas USA

The Black Hills and Badlands: Jewel Cave, Mount Rushmore and the Open Road

One fast South Dakota chapter took us underground at Jewel Cave, beneath Mount Rushmore and through bison country into the strange formations of Badlands National Park.

Road journal The Americas USA 4 min read

Mount Rushmore was one of those places we knew long before we ever thought about driving through South Dakota. What we did not expect was how much could fit around it: an underground start at Jewel Cave, bison beside the road, the strange formations of the Badlands and one campsite where the landscape did most of the talking.

There is no long original report from these days, but the completed route and photographs preserve the order clearly. Within a short distance we moved from a cave below the Black Hills to a monument carved into them, then out into prairie and the eroded formations of Badlands National Park.

The long road to Hot Springs

After Grand Teton we spent one practical night in Riverton and continued east across Wyoming to Hot Springs, South Dakota. This was no longer a route built around one national park. The following day already had several completely different places on it.

Hot Springs gave us a base near the southern Black Hills. From there we could reach Jewel Cave first and still continue to Mount Rushmore and the Badlands before the day was over.

Jewel Cave without a photo story

Jewel Cave became the short underground beginning of the day. We still have the original files from the stop, but no edited photographs that belong on the website, so this is one of the rare parts of the route that has to live without a finished gallery.

The visit also changed the rhythm of the route. For a while we were no longer looking across open landscapes or stopping at viewpoints. Then we returned to the surface and drove towards one of the most recognisable monuments in the country.

Mount Rushmore in daylight

Mount Rushmore appeared above the trees before we reached Grand View Terrace. From close below, the four faces occupied much less of the mountain than the familiar photographs suggest. The terrace and the long approach framed the monument as carefully as the rock itself.

Mount Rushmore seen through trees in the late afternoon
Mount Rushmore framed by the entrance to Grand View Terrace

We arrived with enough daylight to walk through the main area and see the details in the granite. The stop was not free of practicalities: our route record includes the parking at Mount Rushmore, while the monument itself remained visible from the public visitor area.

Bianca at the entrance to Grand View Terrace at Mount Rushmore

Waiting for the lights

We stayed after sunset rather than leaving with the daytime visitors. As the light disappeared, the amphitheatre and visitor buildings became part of the scene and the mountain behind them almost vanished.

The amphitheatre building below Mount Rushmore after dark

Once the monument was illuminated, the faces returned alone against the dark sky. It was the final photograph from the Black Hills before we drove east towards our campsite in the Badlands.

The illuminated faces of Mount Rushmore at night

From the Black Hills into open prairie

The road changed quickly after Mount Rushmore. Forested hills gave way to grassland, long sightlines and the low evening sun. We had spent the day moving between scheduled stops; the drive towards the Badlands finally opened the landscape again.

Sunset across the grassland east of the Black Hills

We slept in the car at a Badlands campsite. It was another free overnight stop on the journey and placed us directly beside the landscape we wanted to see the next morning.

Bison on the road

The first photographs from the Badlands section do not show rock at all. Bison stood on the gravel road with the prairie behind them and decided the speed of traffic for everybody else. We kept our distance and waited while they occupied the route.

Bison standing on a gravel road near Badlands National Park

Beyond them, the ground began to break apart. Green folds of prairie ended at pale ridges and gullies, so the transition from grassland into the actual Badlands was visible rather than gradual.

Green prairie meeting the eroded Badlands landscape

Walking between the Badlands ridges

The formations looked soft from a distance and much sharper once we walked between them. Bands of colour ran through the rock, narrow ridges dropped into dry channels and almost every higher point opened another view across the park.

Striped rock formations and grass in Badlands National Park
Bianca and Tom standing between pale Badlands ridges

People became tiny scale markers in the photographs. Unlike the high mountain parks behind us, the Badlands did not hide their shape behind forest. The whole landscape remained exposed, and the horizon was made from one eroded line after another.

A wide view over the layered formations of Badlands National Park

East towards Sioux Falls

From the Badlands we continued towards Sioux Falls. Minneapolis and Chicago were still ahead, but this was the last national-park landscape of the journey. After months of deserts, coasts, mountains and forests, the final one looked unlike any of the others.

Our conclusion: could South Dakota fit into two days?

Only as a fast road-trip chapter. Jewel Cave, Mount Rushmore after dark and the Badlands the next morning were three completely different stops, and the distances between them were part of the experience. We saw a lot, but there was no pretending this was a slow visit.

In two days we went from a cave below the Black Hills to bison and endless eroded ridges.