San Pedro de Atacama – A dusty desert city
We used this high-altitude desert town to compare local tour operators, meet its many wandering dogs and finally try sweet Mote con Huesillo before heading into the surrounding Atacama landscapes.
We used this high-altitude desert town to compare local tour operators, meet its many wandering dogs and finally try sweet Mote con Huesillo before heading into the surrounding Atacama landscapes.
Mud, forest shade and slippery climbs make this twelve-kilometre route slower than expected, but waterfalls, araucaria trees and the still waters of Lago Chico, Laguna El Toro and Lago Verde reward the effort.
The Sierra Nevada trail climbs from dense forest into a volcanic landscape of lava rock, clear lakes and araucaria trees, with three viewpoints and a broad panorama from Mirador Cumbre.
Our small Chevrolet camper covered 3,000 kilometres without breaking down and provided a comfortable bed and basic kitchen, though sparse equipment, rough handling and the high rental price left room for improvement.
Lessons from almost 4,000 kilometres cover fuel planning, smoother driving on gravel, border paperwork, the Tierra del Fuego ferry and where a campervan can legally stay overnight in Patagonia.
After the long drive south, we used Ushuaia as our base for three gentle national park trails along the Beagle Channel, through Bahía Lapataia and right to the Argentine border.
What looked like a gentle outing became an eight-hour hike through forest and exposed terrain, ending with a steep climb to a blue lagoon beneath Fitz Roy and relentless gusting winds.
A rough boat crossing, fierce Patagonian winds and a careful scramble over rocks led us onto Viedma Glacier for our first crampon trek, complete with ice climbing, blue ice and coffee liqueur.
After more than twenty kilometres on foot the previous day, we kept our final morning gentle, warming up at the lakeside hotel before walking Grey Lake's beach and taking in Patagonia one last time.
Starting with a catamaran across Lago Pehoé, this demanding return hike follows forest, rock and grassland to Refugio Grey, where glacier views, floating icebergs and a well-earned snack await.
This relaxed two hour walk passes the powerful Salto Grande before opening onto Lake Nordenskjöld, green meadows and the unmistakable Cuernos peaks, making it an easy afternoon outing with remarkable views.
A boat trip across the Strait of Magellan leads to thousands of Magellanic penguins, a lighthouse walk and distant sea lions, with cold winds and rough water shaping the experience.